mimino
Senior ZX2ner
Posts: 352
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Post by mimino on Mar 1, 2019 23:55:25 GMT -5
Welp, here I am, a Southern car owner with a snapped brace/support stud. FML! I guess it could only handle one trans swap (atx-2-mtx) lol
What do I do now? Drill the fucker out and tap the new stud in? Any ideas are appreciated!
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Mar 2, 2019 8:54:30 GMT -5
which one?
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mimino
Senior ZX2ner
Posts: 352
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Post by mimino on Mar 2, 2019 13:18:50 GMT -5
the driver's side one on the vertical brace.
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Mar 2, 2019 14:52:59 GMT -5
oh crap, one of these?
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mimino
Senior ZX2ner
Posts: 352
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Post by mimino on Mar 2, 2019 16:06:26 GMT -5
yeah, the driver side #1 (on the left of this picture)
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mimino
Senior ZX2ner
Posts: 352
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Post by mimino on Mar 2, 2019 18:44:41 GMT -5
disassembling the tranny right now. took the case off, but broke the black plastic piece... wtf is that thing for, anyway?
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Mar 3, 2019 9:47:56 GMT -5
yup, its an oil passage that leads out to the 5th gear. was that you that commented on the youtube video? i forgot to mention the 5th gear roll pin in the video, need to fix that.
yeah the mx3 PN appears to be the same.
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mimino
Senior ZX2ner
Posts: 352
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Post by mimino on Mar 3, 2019 14:30:14 GMT -5
yup, its an oil passage that leads out to the 5th gear. was that you that commented on the youtube video? i forgot to mention the 5th gear roll pin in the video, need to fix that. yeah the mx3 PN appears to be the same. yup, that was me lol i'll try and order it (though it looks different in their picture).
Any thoughts on that snapped stud? would it be easier just to pay somebody to come out here and weld me a new "stud" (i'll cut a bolt or something)? or drill thru and tap for a new/smaller bolt?
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Mar 3, 2019 15:05:10 GMT -5
the diagram looks correct for the oil passage as far as i can tell....i can also tell you if the tip is broken of flush with the end of the case it will still work just fine. my daily has been running one of these for quite a long time.
ive never snapped on of those (knock on wood) thankfully but i can go look at my stripped parts car to see where/what that stud goes into. youre gonna have to at the very least get something welded back in there unless it can be drilled and tapped. and even then id weld it if possible.
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mimino
Senior ZX2ner
Posts: 352
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Post by mimino on Mar 3, 2019 17:15:51 GMT -5
yup, that's the plan. appreciate it!
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Mar 5, 2019 15:57:13 GMT -5
So here's what those look like, it's actually part of the sub frame. Driver side is on the right, should be the one you broke. Shame it wasn't the passenger side, that one you can easily get to. It seems to me that those are press fit into the hole, I didn't see any welds. I don't think you'll be able to get away with drilling and tapping it. If you start drilling it's probably going to knock that piece on the inside loose and be trapped. Unless you cut a piece of the subframe out I think that's going to be stuck in there no matter what you do. If it was me, and you didn't want to take the whole subframe out and get it cut and welded and whatnot, here's what I'd do: Grind/cut what's left flat Hammer/drill the hole out Find appropriate sized rivet nut to install And personally, whenever I have any nut or bolt loose under the car or not, I clean up all the threads and slather it with antisieze to minimize anything like that happening. Sucks. Good luck and let us know how it goes!
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Post by zxtooslow on Mar 5, 2019 17:50:37 GMT -5
So I snapped the subframe stud in the fall, I ended up welding it to the cross member to make it through the remainder of the season. My plan is to drop the whole subframe and replace with the one I dropped out of my s/r before scrapping it. That being said, it's definitely going to be the longest route of fixing it. If you're not wanting to get that involved, I think evils solution would more than suffice
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mimino
Senior ZX2ner
Posts: 352
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Post by mimino on Mar 5, 2019 22:36:35 GMT -5
Ford Engineering right there! lol Thanks, guys! When I drill that thing thru, the other side will fall out and get out the way, right? I assume there is enough space for that (car's in the garage and I'm too lazy to look lol) Will the rivet nut hold?
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Mar 6, 2019 15:40:14 GMT -5
So yeah, based on what I see I believe the inner piece should come loose and just be stuck inside the subframe there.
I don't see why the rivet nut wouldn't hold. When they are installed they slip into the hole and have a collar to prevent it from falling all the way in, then you run a bolt (been a while since ive used them there might be a little tool to use as well) in there and tighten it down until it pulls back on itself and expands on the inside preventing the rivet nut from coming back out.
Did that make sense? This short video might help if not
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mimino
Senior ZX2ner
Posts: 352
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Post by mimino on Mar 6, 2019 21:08:22 GMT -5
yeah, spent some time researching last night. ordered some from amazon and will pick up a tool at harbor freight. Should be okay, since there are still two mounts up-top and the remaining bolts/stud should hold.
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Mar 6, 2019 21:44:37 GMT -5
just dont strip out that rivet nut and you should be good to go. coat everything real good with antisieze when you put it back together.
then let her rip
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mimino
Senior ZX2ner
Posts: 352
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Post by mimino on Mar 9, 2019 14:01:23 GMT -5
can the gear shaft nuts be reused? i couldn't find them locally so far. was hoping to put the trans together today. whoever engineered how the reverse gear is locked before you put the case on is a "genius" lol
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Mar 9, 2019 20:39:29 GMT -5
the nut on the end of the 5th gear? technically theyre supposed to be replaced, like axle nuts. if theyre still in good shape and you can stake them back around the shaft I'd just run it personally.
when you've got the case back together just shift it into 5th gear, should give you a bit more resistance
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mimino
Senior ZX2ner
Posts: 352
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Post by mimino on Mar 9, 2019 23:56:52 GMT -5
yeah, both shafts on mine are 32mm. i wouldn't trust them, honestly. going to see what i can order online. found the following part #s: FORD - E92Z-7N170-C; Mazda - F520-17-628
it's been a long day here lol first, primary shaft race fell out while i was cleaning the case. how that happened - no fucking clue...pressed it back on and went to put the case back on. was a pita to line everything up (reverse gear bolt and the secondary shaft bolt). broke the wires on the reverse switch, so another part to order lol at least it shifts in all of the gears, so fingers crossed. glued the tip of that plastic piece of shit on with some jb weld... terrible design on some parts of this trans (diff. aside haha). going to take the old clutch/pp off tomorrow and put the new stuff on, then wait on the shaft nuts to come in before plugging the trans back on.
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Mar 10, 2019 6:08:50 GMT -5
which side of the case did it fall out of? was there any spacers behind it?
curious because when i took my case completely apart (the one im still putting the lsd in) i had spacers behind the races on the outer side of the case. everything ive been able to find about the preload for the gearshafts and differential say the spacers go behind the inside races. idk. since im replacing all the bearings ive kinda been geeking out about getting the preload right since its all apart.
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mimino
Senior ZX2ner
Posts: 352
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Post by mimino on Mar 10, 2019 16:49:27 GMT -5
it was the primary shaft race on the case. the washer/spacer was inside (race pressed on top). it was super weird, as it was a bitch to press with the tools I had. I've eyeballed it and compared to the secondary shaft race, and there were no gaps that I could see (shone the light multiple times around the race). the guy that did my lsd (bearings/ring gear) did mention preloads as well. i just gave him a deer in the headlights look lol he said he checked it as best as he could and shouldn't be a problem. i've never heard any guys that used mfactory before have any issues. btw, the bottom sensor with 2 green wires is identical to the reverse lights one. i swapped them last night. the bottom one is some sort of a neutral switch. it's activated (knob pushed in) as long as the car is in neutral, and disengages if you're in gear (same with revers - activated when you're not in R, and disengages when you shift in R). read conflicting info (on feoa) on this last night, with some people saying that sensor controls idle (i can hardly believe that) in between shifts, and the other people saying something about emissions (more likely). mine's been disconnected since 2011 lmao Do you have a pic of your tob handy? the timken one i got looks different than the one i've pulled. been a minute since i've jacked with putting this on, but i assume the fork has to come off for that. i'll grease the pivot points after that.
P.S. dareall, if you're reading this. I've finally fixed that bolt on the rear mount we've had our back-and-forth on years ago! hahaha
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Mar 10, 2019 18:09:12 GMT -5
i can get you some pics tomorrow, dont have it on hand atm.
you'd be correct with the reverse and neutral switches. poor feoa is lost when it comes to ZX2s....ive never checked any of the other info as im not familiar with other model escorts so idk lol
i'm only worried about preload because im replacing the bearings, i wouldnt bother with it otherwise if it came out/apart without any issues....that and i like to obsess over weird little things like that
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mimino
Senior ZX2ner
Posts: 352
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Post by mimino on Mar 10, 2019 20:34:58 GMT -5
looks like the tob fix i might need to do: (timken one has those small teeth around it)
see, he did press brand new bearings on the diff, so that's why he mentioned preload as well.
OHH, and just noticed that while the shaft nuts are the same mm size (32), one is smaller inside than the other (secondary shaft diameter is smaller)... fml... need to find that pos online now lol Part# F5CZ-7N170-AA/FOJY-7N170-A (omg, it's $20+)
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Mar 11, 2019 16:17:42 GMT -5
all the clutch jobs ive done on these cars ive never noticed that. but we have g5m transmissions not the g25m like hes talking about...
i'll run out to the shop and get you some pics from my last clutch job. the kit came with two TOBs of different height, i used the one that matched what came out and have the other one somewhere. are you having this problem? like i said ive never noticed it before lol
are the nuts really that bad? $20 for one is kinda ridiculous. shit its 19.59 from Tasca, yep that might be as good as it gets, damn.
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mimino
Senior ZX2ner
Posts: 352
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Post by mimino on Mar 11, 2019 20:23:19 GMT -5
yeah, never paid anyone $30 bucks (with shipp.) for a nut before... lmao
i haven't messed with the tob yet, but will update once i get to it. thanks, man!
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mimino
Senior ZX2ner
Posts: 352
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Post by mimino on Mar 12, 2019 12:13:06 GMT -5
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Mar 12, 2019 16:03:37 GMT -5
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Mar 12, 2019 17:24:56 GMT -5
This was the one I didn't use from the kit, it came with two of different heights. It was a LUK kit from rockauto iirc. I'm out in the shop and cleaning up, I'll see if I can find an old/used one
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Mar 12, 2019 17:59:16 GMT -5
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mimino
Senior ZX2ner
Posts: 352
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Post by mimino on Mar 12, 2019 20:48:17 GMT -5
man, this tranny is one frankenmonster lolz if tasca doesn't have it, i'll have to start calling my local mazda dealers and order their shit instead... since when did dealers discontinue allowing people to browse parts catalogs? now you have to fill out this stupid parts request form instead. cheap bastards. interesting on the tob. the timken i have looks completely different. the part that rotates actually sits inside the housing, which makes more sense than the pos i pulled out. i assume this is a stronger design. a taller tob would actually help your slave piston travel, no? especially if a flywheel has to be resurfaced and you lose some material.
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