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Post by bobeganz on Nov 14, 2021 19:16:26 GMT -5
I have recently done a rebuild on the Zetec motor. 2.0 DOHC Zetec motor has had new oil pump, water pump, fuel filter gaskets and other items.
After following the FSM for the car, and yes I own the FSM for the 2001 escort both sedan and coupe models, I started the car and it runs rough.
Just FYI, this is not my first rebuild i have done lol. Just most recent.
My timing belt broke so i pulled the motor for a refresh before replacing belt.
After I had it replaced and all assembled I noticed a loss of power and shudder from the motor. More than usual.
What can I do to fix this issue. I really like the car and have owned it for 4 yrs.
Any help will b appreciated.
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defunctsrowner
Trainee ZX2ner
2001 ZX2 Black MTX I purchased the bone stock 2001 with moonroof used because it was MTX after I re
Posts: 139
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Post by defunctsrowner on Nov 14, 2021 19:29:24 GMT -5
I suggest you double check the timing. First, did you use the cam alignment bar stock that holds the cam in timing alignment (the end where the coil and wire loom for spark plugs) did you use a crank alignment pin that ensures the crank is at TDC, and finally, is the belt tensioner set properly?
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Nov 14, 2021 19:53:49 GMT -5
Most likely timing is off.
Less likely is its one of the little things. For instance the first time I did a timing belt on a ZX2 I didnt fully seat the sparkplug wire on one of the cylinders.
Do you have any codes?
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Apex
Trainee ZX2ner
Posts: 68
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Post by Apex on Nov 15, 2021 12:03:07 GMT -5
Some people will swear that the TDC pin does not correctly set #1 piston to TDC and will result in being 1 tooth off, but I also have spoken with someone who has retimed more than one of these engines and has never had a problem with the pin. I would read codes and live data for any obvious drivability concerns. Another common thing I have seen a lot is a large vacuum hose being left off after major work is done to the car, this would show as extremely lean on short term/long term fuel trims, but would improve with RPMs. Does the car only run rough at idle or at all times?
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defunctsrowner
Trainee ZX2ner
2001 ZX2 Black MTX I purchased the bone stock 2001 with moonroof used because it was MTX after I re
Posts: 139
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Post by defunctsrowner on Nov 15, 2021 12:49:40 GMT -5
It always works for me. When it was a problem the last time it was a bad engine ground (by the starter on transmission side). Everything looked fine but the wire was corroded underneath the plastic sheathing; changed resistance to the sensor. Replaced the wire and like magic timing was perfect again.
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Post by bobeganz on Nov 15, 2021 13:58:03 GMT -5
I used the cam bar but alignment peg bent. Thats why i pulled motor was to get peg out and other repairs.
I was getting code P0340. But I had a loose wire connecting to cam sensor. I have replaced that and still runs.
I was having issues with idle and car shutting off. I changed exhaust timing by 1 tooth because I had a code for exhaust cam excessive advance. So i retarded tye exhaust cam and vehicle runs better without shut off.
Just have loss of power when attempting to accelerate. Totally baffled on this now.
I appreciate all questions and help.
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Nov 15, 2021 14:15:54 GMT -5
So the P0340 is most likely indicating that timing is still off.
Your exhaust cam code for excessive advance leans towards this being the issue as well, that code was P0014 I'm assuming.
The Zetec head on the ZX2 has VCT on the exhaust cam which the computer commands to retard or advance of the exhaust cam up to 30 degrees IIRC based on the engine operating parameters.
Did you take the exhaust cam gear off of the VCT spool when doing the timing? If so there is a tab that needs to be aligned from the cam gear to the spool when reinstalling.
Additionally when the exhaust side is all together and the timing belt is disengaged from the cam gear you should be able to rotate the exhaust cam gear clockwise and it should spring back.
I've not had any issues with the VCT system myself in any of my ZX2s but others have. Without jumping in to find if this is a VCT issue I would suggest retiming it.
I never use the bolt, I always find cyl#1 TDC then install the cam lock tool and install the belt. Best tip I can give is to keep the intake cam gear loose (spinning on the cam) while installing the belt. Work from the crank going counter clockwise finishing with the tensioner (leave tensioner loose, not connected to the timing backing plate as this gives you alot more slack to work with).
When youre done and have tensioner set, turn engine over by hand 3 or 4 revolutions then find #1 TDC again and verify tensioner position, adjust tensioner again if out of spec and turn over by hand again.
If all checks out afterwards, it was the timing. If you keep getting codes, I would be wondering if you're experiencing VCT problems.....
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Post by bobeganz on Nov 15, 2021 15:42:06 GMT -5
This is hard to deal with ATM, I live in Seattle, WA. Raining a lot lol. I have no garage for it to do work.
When I originally put back together I did leave tensioner slacked, not in back plate, and ran counterclockwise like stated in FSM. I left pulleys loose and wrapped belt on. I then did check rotation and reset TDC.
When I put exhaust cam back i did not remove vct from cam but did align the vct and inserted the exhaust cam sprocket on appropriately, as stated in FSM.
Currently I dont have jack and stands to put up in air again to try timing over lol.
Friend is using them for their repair lol.
Im not driving it currently btw.
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Nov 15, 2021 16:36:19 GMT -5
Dang, shame you're not closer or I'd come take a look. But that's a bit of a drive for me, I'm in Maryland lol.
Best case scenario is its just the timing is off still. When I started timing these engines I used to time it all up as stated in the above post then put the valve cover on but not tight and start it up. I started doing this after I'd timed a few up and put all back together and still got the P0304 which is how I knew the timing was still off.
I've since bought a better fitting piece of metal for the Cam Lock tool and got real anal about finding #1 TDC. If you don't have a TDC tool for the spark plug a long thin screwdriver will do fine, just be sure not to let it get bit when turning the crank!
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Post by bobeganz on Dec 13, 2021 7:24:57 GMT -5
Thanks for the insight! I retimed it, and works perfectly. Damn car lol. Thanks for all the help! Much appreciated. All fixed and running great!
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Post by dareall on Dec 13, 2021 16:17:44 GMT -5
... got real anal about finding #1 TDC. If you don't have a TDC tool for the spark plug a long thin screwdriver will do fine, just be sure not to let it get bit when turning the crank!
no need for removing spark plug or using the tdc peg EVER!! The crank position is determined by the notches on the crank pulley after it is installed. This is always accurate and is the way it was designed by Ford.
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Dec 13, 2021 16:36:49 GMT -5
... got real anal about finding #1 TDC. If you don't have a TDC tool for the spark plug a long thin screwdriver will do fine, just be sure not to let it get bit when turning the crank! no need for removing spark plug or using the tdc peg EVER!! The crank position is determined by the notches on the crank pulley after it is installed. This is always accurate and is the way it was designed by Ford. Really? I ran a UDP for so many years (powder pulley and ZX2ner prior) that I never noticed it lol. It wasn't until I turboed the red car that I finally swapped back to a factory pulley (steel timing gear wore into the aluminum UDP) I just got so used to finding TDC manually that I still do it....old habits die hard I suppose
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Post by dareall on Dec 14, 2021 5:21:59 GMT -5
no need for removing spark plug or using the tdc peg EVER!! The crank position is determined by the notches on the crank pulley after it is installed. This is always accurate and is the way it was designed by Ford. Really? I ran a UDP for so many years (powder pulley and ZX2ner prior) that I never noticed it lol. It wasn't until I turboed the red car that I finally swapped back to a factory pulley (steel timing gear wore into the aluminum UDP) I just got so used to finding TDC manually that I still do it....old habits die hard I suppose
even udp has the line for tdc. This playing around with the exhaust cam gear and all the other shenanigans is just wrong It really is a good thing for these people that these engines are non-interference
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Dec 14, 2021 16:13:51 GMT -5
maybe the ESSY UDP does....i know for sure the ZX2ner didnt. I'll have to dig out my old powder pulleys and see if i just missed it all these years lmao
but agreed on the not needing to touch the exhaust cam. shouldnt have to touch it for doing the timing
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defunctsrowner
Trainee ZX2ner
2001 ZX2 Black MTX I purchased the bone stock 2001 with moonroof used because it was MTX after I re
Posts: 139
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Post by defunctsrowner on Dec 14, 2021 16:27:51 GMT -5
The Essy on my 2001 has the timing mark as does the Ford Racing on the SR.
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Post by TheEvilZX2 on Dec 15, 2021 19:52:43 GMT -5
Zx2ner UDP (red) and powder UDP (silver). No timing marks on either
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